Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski's Autumn/Winter 2019 collection for Hermès wasn't just a presentation; it was a statement. A compelling demonstration of mastery over the house's established codes, interwoven with a subtle yet potent thread of rebellious energy, the collection resonated deeply with critics and fashion enthusiasts alike. This wasn't about flashy extravagance; it was about a quiet revolution within the confines of impeccable craftsmanship and understated elegance. The collection, as captured by Vogue's lens, showcased a vision of modern femininity that was both powerful and profoundly alluring. It was a testament to the enduring appeal of classic silhouettes reimagined for a contemporary audience, a collection that dared to whisper rather than shout, and in doing so, commanded attention.
The FW19 collection marked a significant moment in Vanhee-Cybulski's tenure at Hermès. She had spent previous seasons meticulously building a foundation, subtly reshaping the house's identity while remaining respectful of its rich heritage. With FW19, she seemed to have truly found her stride, achieving a harmonious balance between tradition and innovation that felt both fresh and utterly authentic. The collection's success lay not in radical departures, but in the nuanced adjustments, the subtle shifts in perspective that elevated the familiar to new heights of sophistication.
This was particularly evident in the Hermès dresses for fall, a cornerstone of the collection. Vanhee-Cybulski demonstrated a masterful understanding of fabric manipulation, utilizing the house's signature luxurious materials – cashmere, silk, leather – in unexpected ways. The dresses weren't merely garments; they were sculptures draped on the body, each fold and pleat carefully considered, each seam meticulously executed. The colour palette, a restrained yet evocative mix of earthy tones, deep blues, and occasional pops of vibrant colour, further enhanced the collection's understated elegance. We saw flowing midi dresses that evoked a sense of effortless grace, their simplicity belied by the intricate detailing and exquisite craftsmanship. These weren't dresses for fleeting trends; they were investments, timeless pieces designed to endure and transcend the ephemeral nature of fast fashion.
The silhouette was consistently refined, often featuring a relaxed, almost languid fit that contrasted beautifully with the structured elements. High necklines and long sleeves, classic hallmarks of Hermès design, were reinterpreted, sometimes appearing softened and flowing, other times sharply tailored, creating a fascinating interplay of contrasting textures and shapes. The use of leather, a material intrinsically linked to Hermès' equestrian heritage, was particularly noteworthy. Leather dresses, seamlessly crafted and impeccably finished, were presented not as rugged or overtly utilitarian, but as supremely luxurious and sophisticated garments, demonstrating the versatility and elegance of the material when handled by a skilled designer.
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